By I J Rao, Former Vice President, CEGAT

Aerial View of Dhanushkodi Island

I joined the Central Excise Department in October 1955. It was a historic occasion because I was the first to join as a direct recruit in the Department. For the first time, such recruitment was made.

That was not a help to me. There was no training scheme and the then Collector, Mr. Neale, chalked out an ad-hoc training schedule with the intention of finishing my training in six months. None knew what my position was as I joined as a Probationary Superintendent (class I) and the Assistant Collectors and the Deputy Collectors were all class II officers. Mainly to get rid of the embarrassment, the Collector sent me to various divisions and ranges. None knew what to do with me. Some superintendents and Inspectors did help me to get an idea of what the Department was all about but on the whole it was not at all an ideal situation. This continued for more than two years during which I worked as Superintendent at Gobi, Tellicherry and the like. Departmental examination was held only for the first part and my probation was extended because I did not pass the second part which was not held at all. My protest about this extension received no response.

It was in this background that I was posted as Superintendent of Customs at Dhanushkodi. My first arrival there was depressing. It was drab; very hot and humid. There were only two buildings, one the railway station and the other my official residence. I did not know Tamil well and unlike elsewhere this was a handicap. There was no greenery. For food I had to depend on the railway canteen. Fresh water had to come from Rameshwaram. Once the Indo-Ceylon Express departed, the Railway station in which my office was located became lonely and forlorn. There was no electricity and the sole source of entertainment was the portable radio I had.

I got out of the initial depression quickly. This was due to the cheerful nature of many of the Inspectors and staff there. They were taking the hardships in their stride. Quite soon I developed a liking for the exotic atmosphere of the place. In the morning around 10 the boat from Talai-Mannar arrived. The moment the smoke was seen on the horizon, I would get the message that "kappal varudi". In about half an hour all the staff would assemble at the office and leave for the Customs shed in a railway compartment. This was necessary because otherwise we would have to trudge almost a mile in deep sand. There was no road.

Those were the days when Indian citizens were being evicted from Ceylon and the number of people arriving was quite considerable. Unfortunately I felt bound by the Customs Law and dealt with quite strictly with the unfortunate people arriving with a few things salvaged in Ceylon. There was no policy of liberalness with them. Even today I cringe when I recall, quite clearly the "efficiency" I and my staff showed then. We simply followed the orders but the entire thing was sad.

Another memory was of the full moon days (Pournamy) and new moon days (amavasyas). On these days, there would be high tides in Palk Strait and Gulf of Mannar between which Dhanushkodi Island was situated. There would be a confluence of the two and water would engulf the small area in which we all lived; customs, railways and immigration staff and others. The few families would be evacuated to the railway platform and personal effects would be placed two or three feet above the floor level for a few hours. The way in which all the people helped each other on these occasions is a memory I would have for a long time.

Our needs for groceries, vegetables and the like were met by the help of the Railway authorities. We used to give them lists which would be relayed to Ramnad about 30 miles away. The goods would be bought and sent by the Indo-Ceylon Express to be given to us.

I worked there for nearly two years. On new year's day, 1959, I left for Allahabad where I was transferred. I spent the next five years in U.P. working at Allahabad, Kanpur, Agra and Farrukhabad. I was then transferred to Cochin. After that I worked in Calcutta, Bombay, Madras and Delhi. But the memories of Dhanushkodi would never go away. I often wanted to go back and live the nostalgia again. But there is no Dhanushkodi now! Some years after I left, a huge tidal wave submerged the island causing serious loss of life. The vulnerable railway line was washed away and the Customs post disappeared. I felt miserable when I read the news. I could only retain the memories. That was easy as I really liked the place with all its travails and tribulations. Even now there are beautiful lagoons at Dhanushkodi. It is still a religiously revered place for Hindus. Who knows, I may still go there and bathe in one of them.

(The views expressed are personal of the author)